Guo bao rou — sweet and sour crispy pork in a tangy caramelised sauce — is the signature dish of northeast Chinese cooking and the thing to order in Changchun. It is found on nearly every menu in the city, but the quality varies enormously. The genuine version uses fresh pork loin, a batter that stays crisp rather than turning soggy, and a sauce where the sweet-sour balance is precisely calibrated.
Look for restaurants advertising themselves as dongbei cai (northeastern cuisine) on the streets around the major hotels and the Chunyi Road commercial district. Alongside the guo bao rou, order braised pork belly (hong shao rou), garlic-dressed pork liver, and a plate of la bai cai (pickled spicy cabbage) that is the baseline condiment of northeastern cooking. Most portions are substantial — the local eating culture does not favour restraint.