Sichuan Peppercorn Shopping

Sichuan peppercorn is the ingredient that most distinguishes Sichuan cooking and is well worth buying in quantity in Chengdu, where fresh supplies come from the producing regions of Hanyuan and Jiangjin. The difference between freshly dried Sichuan pepper and the powdery, flavourless stuff sold overseas is profound.

The Jinli souvenir area sells small decorative packages aimed at tourists, but the markets around the wholesale food district near the South Bus Station sell proper quantities at very cheap prices. Look for bright, orangey-red husks that have not fully opened — these are the freshest. Buy both whole and pre-ground. Also buy whole dried Sichuan chilies (erjingtiao variety) and good-quality Pixian doubanjiang if travelling home.

shopping market
A story
Sichuan peppercorn is not actually pepper — it is the dried husk of the Chinese prickly ash berry (Zanthoxylum simulans), and its active chemical (hydroxy-alpha-sanshool) binds to receptors in the mouth that respond to touch rather than pain, creating the distinctive numbing, buzzing sensation called mala. Banning it in the US for 40 years (as a potential carrier of citrus canker disease) meant that Americans discovered it late. The freshest peppercorn, sold in open sacks at Chengdu's Jinli and wholesale markets, is more fragrant and more electric than anything imported.

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