Goubuli Baozi Restaurant

The original home of Tianjin's 18-pleated pork buns, in business since 1858

Goubuli is Tianjin's most famous restaurant — the original home of the city's signature pork buns. The name translates roughly as "the dog ignores it," a nickname the founder apparently received as a child (meaning he was so busy he wouldn't even stop to pet a dog), and the buns are notable for having exactly 18 pleats each, a rule maintained since 1858. The broth-filled dumplings are not as delicate as Shanghai-style xiaolongbao, but they have a heartier, more satisfying quality.

The main branch on Shandong Road has expanded into a large multi-floor restaurant that is unquestionably touristy — there are now Goubuli chains across China. But the flagship is still worth visiting for the original experience. Order the standard pork buns, ideally alongside a bowl of congee or mung bean soup. Prices are higher than street stalls, but still modest by Western standards.

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