Tucked into the alleys south of the Barkhor, Ani Tsankhung is a small, working nunnery of around a hundred Tibetan nuns. The site is old — King Songtsen Gampo is said to have meditated in the underground cell that still forms its core in the 7th century — but the present buildings are modest, an ochre-walled compound around a single courtyard.
The nuns run a small teahouse on the premises that is one of the best lunch spots in the old town: sweet tea by the glass, momos, thukpa noodle soup, and the satisfying feeling of supporting the monastery. The shrine itself is open through the day, and the chanting in the late afternoon is worth timing for. Donations are appreciated.