Tiger Leaping Gorge
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Tiger Leaping Gorge

Tiger Leaping Gorge

Yunnan mountain gorge where the upper Yangtze cuts between Jade Dragon and Haba snow peaks.

Tiger Leaping Gorge cuts between two of Yunnan's great snow mountains — Jade Dragon to the south at 5,596 metres, Haba to the north at 5,396 — with the upper Yangtze River thundering through the gap below. The gorge is among the deepest in the world by some measurements, and the two-to-three day high trail along the north rim is consistently rated among the finest walks in China. It draws serious trekkers and casual hikers alike, partly because the logistics are straightforward and partly because the scenery is relentlessly dramatic from the first hour.

The classic route runs roughly 22 kilometres from Qiaotou village (the usual starting point) to Walnut Grove, traversing the high trail that climbs to around 2,700 metres before dropping back toward the river. The path passes through a handful of small guesthouses and farmhouses where you can eat and sleep, most famously the Halfway Guesthouse. The trail involves some genuinely steep sections — the notorious 28 Bends above Qiaotou gain several hundred metres in a short distance — but nothing requiring technical skill. Summer monsoon brings landslide risk; spring and autumn are the best seasons.

The gorge is easily combined with a trip between Lijiang and Shangrila, which are at either end. Most travellers arrive at Qiaotou from Lijiang (under two hours by bus) and emerge at Walnut Grove for onward transport to Shangrila. Doing it in reverse is less common but perfectly viable. There is also a lower paved road following the river, which some people drive or take a motorcycle taxi along, but it misses the whole point — the views from the high trail are what justify the trip.

An entry ticket of ¥45 covers the gorge area. The Tiger Leaping Stone itself, a boulder in the middle of the roaring river at the narrowest point, is accessible from the lower road and makes a worthwhile short stop even for those not doing the full trek.

Guide

Getting There

The standard approach is from Lijiang, which is the nearest major transport hub. Regular buses from Lijiang bus station to Qiaotou take about 90 minutes and leave in the morning; confirm current schedules at your accommodation in Lijiang. Qiaotou is the trailhead for the high trail and the starting point for most trekkers.

The gorge is naturally combined with the route between Lijiang and Shangrila: buses running between the two pass through Qiaotou and can drop trekkers off. Completing the trek in the Lijiang-to-Shangrila direction (entering at Qiaotou, exiting at Walnut Grove to pick up a bus to Shangrila) is slightly more common, but the reverse is equally viable. There is no train to either trailhead. The entrance fee of ¥45 is collected at the Qiaotou checkpoint. Taxis back from Walnut Grove to Lijiang or to Shangrila can be arranged at the guesthouses at the Walnut Grove end.

Guide

When to Go

Spring (March to May) and autumn (September to November) are the best seasons for the high trail. April and May bring wildflowers on the trail and good visibility; October has reliably clear skies and comfortable temperatures. The winter months (December to February) are cold at altitude but often clear, and some hardy trekkers prefer the solitude of off-season visits.

The summer monsoon (June to September) is the most problematic period. Rainfall loosens the steep slopes above the trail and landslides have buried sections of path. The worst months are July and August. If you must go in summer, get current local information about trail conditions before starting — this is not something to improvise. The guesthouses at Qiaotou will know which sections are open and which are not.