Zhiweiguan is the most famous traditional Hangzhou restaurant, a century-old institution that has been feeding locals and emperors alike since 1913. The original branch on Renhe Road near the lake serves definitive versions of the city's signature dishes: Dongpo pork with its trembling, lacquered fat cap, West Lake vinegar fish, Longjing shrimp in season, and a memorable soup made from tofu and ham that is deceptively simple.
The dining room is large and often loud, the service old-fashioned in the best sense. Order the set menu if you don't read Chinese — it covers the key dishes at a fair price. The restaurant has branches across the city, but the original has the atmosphere. Lunch is busy with locals; go at opening time (11am) to avoid queuing.