Lania sits on the southern slopes of the Troodos Mountains, about 26 km from Limassol, right on the road that climbs from the coast into the highlands. It is one of the traditional wine villages of Cyprus, and it looks the part: stone houses, narrow lanes, flowers spilling from every wall.
Legend has it the village takes its name from Lana, daughter of Dionysos, the god of wine. Whether or not you believe that, wine runs through everything here. The villagers still grow grapes and produce commandaria, local wines, and zivania. You can also find homemade soutzioukos, the grape-must candy that is a Troodos staple.
The village's real treasure is the Lania linos, an old wine press kept in its original state with the original equipment. Other restored wine presses exist on the island, but this is the only one that has not been modernized. It is open to visitors throughout the day.
In the centre stands the Church of Panagia Chrysolanitissa, built in traditional Cypriot style. Inside, among other icons, is the Virgin Mary of Valanas, said to have been found buried in the earth long ago. Nearby, a stone fountain and the old village spring mark the spot where generations drew their water.
Lania once had a colossal royal oak, supposedly over 800 years old. The story goes that a French king, hunting for healthy vine stock after disease destroyed his own vineyards, came to Lania and waited under this tree while cuttings were prepared for him. The oak finally collapsed under its own weight in 1997. A second, even larger royal oak still stands nearby, now protected by the state.
After a walk through the stone lanes, settle under the big plane tree in the village square for a coffee or a meal at the local tavern. That is about the right pace for Lania.