Hyderabadi cuisine is one of India's great regional kitchens — a fusion of Mughlai technique with Deccan and Telugu ingredients, developed in the kitchens of the Nizams over three centuries. The signature dish is biryani, slow-cooked dum-style with basmati, meat (usually mutton or chicken), saffron, fried onions, and yoghurt. Every Hyderabadi will tell you theirs is the best place for it; Paradise, Bawarchi, and Shah Ghouse are the big names, though many smaller places in the old city are at least as good.
Beyond biryani, look for haleem — a slow-cooked porridge of wheat, meat, and spices traditionally eaten during Ramzan — and the Irani cafes inherited from Persian immigrants in the early 20th century, where chai and Osmania biscuits are the order of the day. Nimrah Cafe opposite Charminar is a institution. For dessert try double ka meetha (a bread pudding soaked in saffron syrup) or qubani ka meetha (stewed apricots with cream).