Panaji is small enough to cover on foot in a long day. The single iconic sight is the Church of the Immaculate Conception, with its dramatic zigzag staircase climbing from the central square. From there, walk east into Fontainhas, the Latin Quarter of narrow lanes and yellow, blue, and pink Portuguese-era houses — easily the most photogenic neighbourhood in Goa. The Old Secretariat (now the State Museum), the Adil Shah Palace, and the Mandovi waterfront fill out the rest of the central walk.
For something different, the Maruti Temple on Altinho hill is the city's most prominent Hindu temple and offers a clear view back over the rooftops to the river. The Miramar promenade runs three kilometres west to the river mouth. Old Goa, a few kilometres upriver, is where you go for the great Portuguese-era cathedrals — half a day at least.