Bhuj is the largest city in Kutch and the ideal base for exploring the region. It is a very old city with a fascinating old walled quarter, several palaces, and the excellent Aina Mahal (Hall of Mirrors), built by a Kutchi craftsman who spent years studying in Europe. Right next door, the Italianate Prag Mahal was the home of the last Maharao and still bears the scars of the 2001 earthquake.
The city was devastated by that earthquake but has been largely rebuilt. The moving Smritivan Memorial on Bhujia Hill commemorates the victims with 13,000 planted trees. What draws most visitors today, though, are the surrounding craft villages, where communities of artisans produce exquisite embroidery, block-printed cotton and lacquer work, each village with its own distinct tradition. Day trips to the Rann of Kutch, where you can see the Indian wild ass, are easily arranged from Bhuj.
In the centre of town, Hamirsar Lake is a pleasant walk at sunset, and the Kutch Museum, the oldest museum in Gujarat, has a fine collection of Kutchi embroidery, silverwork, and local artefacts.