Himachal village and paragliding hub below Billing meadow, backed by tea gardens and Dhauladhar peaks.
Bir is a small village in the Kangra valley of Himachal Pradesh, set among tea gardens and monasteries with the snow wall of the Dhauladhar range rising directly behind it. Half an hour's drive up the mountain, a meadow at 2,400 metres called Billing is one of the world's great paragliding launch sites — and the two names have become inseparable. Pilots come here from all over the world, especially in the autumn season, and the village below has grown up around the sport.
The setting is extraordinary. From Billing a pilot can soar for more than 200 km along the Dhauladhar ridge, flying ridge-to-ridge all the way to Dharamsala or Mandi, often in the company of Himalayan griffon vultures. The short "top-to-bottom" flight down to the landing field at Bir takes about half an hour and is the standard tandem ride that most visitors come for. In 2015 the Paragliding World Cup was held here, cementing Bir's reputation as the best site in India.
Bir is more than just paragliding, though. The lower village is home to a large Tibetan colony founded by refugees who followed the Dalai Lama into exile in 1959; the nearby Sherab Ling monastery, seat of the 12th Tai Situpa, houses a magnificent golden Maitreya and a lively community of young monks. The Deer Park Institute, established by Dzongsar Khyentse Rinpoche in 2006, draws scholars and meditators for its programme of seminars on classical Indian and Buddhist philosophy. Above the village, tea gardens climb the lower slopes of the Dhauladhar, and short walks lead up to the river and the meditation hermitages in the forest. The ancient Baijnath Shiva temple, 16 km away by road, is worth a half-day excursion. The place has the quiet, cosmopolitan feel you sometimes get in Himalayan towns where climbers, meditators and tea farmers coexist happily.
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Eating Out
No culinary wonders in Bir. Your best bet is Emaho cafe: they have the largest variety and an out-door terrace in the back-yard. Friends' Cafe is also an option, although their choices are not as varied as the menu suggests. Simple bakery shop in street going down from taxi-stand, try their vegetable pie - good for take away during a long walk!
Do not drink water from the jugs in any place. Not only is the water not boiled, this water does also not come straight from the tap. Check the date on the bottles of soft drinks in all places, including shops.
Go to Dharamsala for pasta, pizza, salads, pies, cheese sandwiches, french fries, muesli and curd.
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Shopping
Every day shopping can be done in Bir Tibetan Colony. In upper Bir you'll find a post-office. In nearby Chauntra you can shop for basic kitchenware. In Joginder Nagar and Bajnath are a few pharmacies, hardware stores, shops with decorative items, drugstores, shops with basic domestic appliances. For more choice in clothing and appliances and for garden centres go to Palampur. Go to Dharamsala to buy books, Kashmir shawls and silver jewelry, Tibetan religious items, cheese, curd, pies, ice-cream, pasta, pizza, salads, french fries and sandwiches.
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Things to Do
Bir Billing is one of the world's top paragliding destinations, but there's plenty more to explore on the ground.
Paragliding
The Billing launch site at 2,400 metres is the heart of the operation. Tandem flights are available for anyone — no experience needed — and the views from the meadow are worth the hour-long cab ride even if you never leave the ground. The flying season peaks from October through November.
Monasteries and spiritual sites
Sherab Ling monastery in the pine forest between Bir and Baijnath is the largest and most impressive, with its golden Maitreya and line of stupas. The Deer Park Institute in the Tibetan Colony runs seminars on Buddhist philosophy and Indian wisdom traditions. Several smaller gompa are scattered through the colony and easy to visit on foot.
Baijnath temple
The Baijnath Shiva temple dates to 1204 CE and is one of the finest examples of medieval Nagara temple architecture in Himachal Pradesh. It's 16 km from Bir by road, or a longer but beautiful walk via the Sherab Ling stupa trail.
Tea gardens
The Bir Tea Factory offers informal tours during processing season and sells Kangra first-flush tea at factory prices. The tea gardens on the lower Dhauladhar slopes make for a gentle walk at any time of year.
Upper Bir
The river above the main village has natural pools for swimming in summer. Follow the main road uphill and then drop down toward the water — a popular afternoon escape from the valley heat.