Lal Chowk

Lal Chowk — "Red Square" — is the commercial and symbolic centre of Srinagar. The name was given by leftist political activists in the 1930s who were inspired by Moscow's Red Square, and the area has been a centre of political as well as commercial life ever since. The clock tower that rises from the intersection is the most photographed urban landmark in Kashmir. The surrounding streets contain the densest concentration of shops, banks, photocopy stalls, and street food sellers in the city.

As a sight, Lal Chowk is more interesting historically than visually — the architecture is largely unremarkable and the traffic is intense. But it is the real working centre of Srinagar and worth spending an hour in, particularly in the evening when the market is busy. The streets immediately north and east lead into the old city bazaars; the street south leads to Residency Road and the main restaurant strip. The area has been the site of numerous political demonstrations and some violent incidents over the decades; the security presence remains heavy.

things to do sight old city
A story
The clock tower at Lal Chowk has flown three different flags in living memory. After Partition in 1947, as Indian troops were airlifted in to counter the Pakistani-backed invasion, Jawaharlal Nehru promised a plebiscite to decide Kashmir's future and symbolically raised the Indian flag here. In 1992, at the height of the insurgency, BJP leader L.K. Advani announced he would come and plant the Indian flag on the clock tower again — a provocative gesture that required the entire city to be locked down and thousands of security forces deployed to make it happen. The clock tower has outlasted both speeches.

Other places in Old City (Downtown)