Every evening at sunset, Indian and Pakistani border guards perform an elaborate flag-lowering ceremony at the Wagah crossing — the only land border between the two countries open to civilians. The drill involves high kicks, aggressive marching, staring contests, and synchronized flag furling, all performed to the roars of partisan crowds on both sides of the gate.
The spectacle is simultaneously absurd and oddly moving. Arrive at least an hour early to get a decent seat in the grandstands. The ceremony lasts about 45 minutes. Wagah is 30 km west of Amritsar; shared autos and taxis run from the city throughout the afternoon.