Karni Mata Temple (Deshnoke)

The Karni Mata Temple at Deshnoke, 30 km south of Bikaner, is one of the most singularly unusual religious sites in India. The marble temple is home to an estimated 25,000 rats, which crawl freely over the floor, through the corridors, and across the offerings left by pilgrims. They are considered sacred — manifestations of the goddess Karni Mata's devotees awaiting reincarnation as humans.

Visitors must remove shoes before entering (expect rat droppings underfoot) and move carefully. Most rats are remarkably unbothered by humans. The temple itself is beautiful, with intricate marble work and silver doors. Take a shared jeep or bus from Bikaner's main bus stand. The journey takes about 40 minutes. Best visited in the morning before the midday heat sets in.

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The approximately 25,000 rats at Karni Mata are known as kabas — considered reincarnations of Karni Mata's devotees. White rats, spotted occasionally among the brown masses, are considered especially auspicious: seeing one brings good fortune. Devotees eat food that has been nibbled by the rats, believing it to be sanctified rather than contaminated. The temple's security arrangements are less about the rats getting out than about making sure cats don't get in.

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