Bikaner is famous across India for its namkeen — savoury fried snacks. The local bhujia, a thin sev made from moth bean flour, is sold everywhere and exported nationwide under the Haldiram's brand (which originated here). Street food around Kote Gate and the old city market is excellent and cheap.
For sit-down meals, the options are decent rather than spectacular. Most visitors eat at their guesthouse or at one of the restaurants near the old city. Sweets shops are worth seeking out — Bikaner's rasgullas and kalakand have a regional reputation.