Bikaner is the overlooked gem of the Rajasthan desert circuit. Founded in 1488 by Rao Bika, this walled city has a magnificent fort, carved havelis, and a fraction of the tourist crowds that clog Jaisalmer and Jodhpur.
Junagarh Fort is the main draw — unlike most Rajasthani forts, it sits on flat ground rather than a hilltop, yet it was never conquered. Inside, the palaces are richly decorated with intricate stone carving, painting, and mirror work. The old city has good street food (Bikaner is famous across India for its namkeen snacks) and the Rampuria Haveli Street is the best stretch for carved merchant townhouses. The National Research Centre on Camel on the outskirts is more interesting than it sounds, and the Karni Mata Temple at Deshnoke, 30 km south, houses thousands of sacred rats and is one of India's most unusual religious sites.