Samode Haveli is a 300-year-old haveli (merchant mansion) in the old city, now operating as a heritage hotel. Even if you're not staying here, the public areas are worth a visit: the painted rooms have original frescoes in reds, greens, and golds depicting hunting scenes, court life, and mythology, and the courtyards give a sense of how the Rajput elite actually lived.
The rooftop bar is one of the more atmospheric places in Jaipur for a sundowner — the old city spreads around you, and on clear evenings you can see Nahargarh Fort lit up on the ridge above. Service can be slow but the setting is hard to fault.
Non-guests may be asked to make a reservation or show that they're visiting for drinks or dinner. The haveli is a short walk from the old city's main sights, making it convenient for an end-of-day stop.