Cirebon is a genuine food destination, one of the few Indonesian cities where the local dishes are reason enough to visit. Nasi Jamblang is the signature: steamed rice wrapped in teak leaves, served with a spread of side dishes you choose yourself. Empal Gentong — a beef and offal curry cooked in a clay pot — is the other essential. Both are best eaten at no-frills spots where locals go, usually in the morning or at lunch. The food culture here is unpretentious and good.