Every evening from around 6 p.m., a row of grills sets up on the village square in front of the harbour, and the day's catch goes onto the coals — usually whole snapper, squid, prawns, and the occasional grouper. You pick what you want from the iced display, agree a price by weight, and they cook it while you wait.
Bring small notes and patience. The plates come with rice, sambal, and water spinach (kangkung). Look for any stall with a queue of locals.