Several mid-range rumah makan (eating houses) in central Samarinda specialize in Kutai and Banjar cuisine — the distinct food traditions of East Kalimantan that differ significantly from the Javanese and Padang food that dominates most of Indonesia's restaurant scene. Look for places serving amplang (deep-fried fish crackers made from wahoo), gence ruan (snake-head fish in coconut and chilli paste), and bubur pedas (spiced rice porridge).
The amplang crackers deserve particular attention: they are Samarinda's most famous food product and make excellent, packable souvenirs. The best versions are light, crispy, and intensely savoury, quite unlike the generic fish crackers sold across Indonesia. Bags of fresh amplang are available at Pasar Pagi and in shops along the main streets near the waterfront.