What you come to the Baliem Valley for is Dani country itself: villages of thatched honai huts, mummified ancestors kept in some compounds, salt wells worked the traditional way, and trekking routes through highland terrain that European explorers didn't reach until 1938. Wamena is the practical base; the rewarding sights are scattered around the valley and reached on foot, by bemo, or by hired car with a guide.