Beringin Market is the commercial heart of Gunungsitoli and the best place to eat a cheap, filling meal. Warung stalls around the market perimeter open at dawn and run until early afternoon, serving nasi campur (rice with side dishes), mie goreng, and fresh fish brought in from the harbour. The market itself trades in everything from vegetables and spices to local durian — the Nias variety is famously aromatic and sought after across North Sumatra.
Look for the durian-flavoured dodol at the stalls near the market entrance: the sticky sweet confection travels well and makes a good gift. Nias tofu, produced locally and firmer than the mainland variety, shows up in several dishes and is worth trying if you see it.