Kemaro Island and Pagoda

Kemaro Island is a small, low river island a few kilometres downstream of central Palembang, in the middle of the Musi. The standard ketek trip from Pasar 16 Ilir takes about an hour each way. The island is dominated by a nine-storey Chinese pagoda built in 2006, with a small Buddhist temple, a row of food and incense stalls, and the legend-shrouded tomb of Princess Siti Fatimah on a low rise behind it.

The atmosphere is normally sleepy, but the island erupts into life around Chinese New Year for the Cap Go Meh festival — one of the largest in Indonesia outside Java — when riverboats from across the region tie up along the bank. Even on quiet days, the riverside view back towards Palembang is worth the trip.

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A story
Kemaro's central pagoda was funded by Indonesian Chinese donors in 2006 to anchor the local legend of Princess Siti Fatimah and a Chinese prince whose love ended in tragedy in the Musi River. The pagoda is fully functional as a Buddhist temple and is the focal point of the annual Cap Go Meh festival, when hundreds of thousands of Chinese-Indonesians arrive by riverboat.