The covered bazaar runs through several blocks of the old city centre, between the Jameh Mosque and the Sheikh Safi shrine. It is smaller than Tabriz or Isfahan but works on the same principle — a warren of vaulted brick passageways arranged by trade. Carpet sellers occupy the most space, which makes sense in a city famous for its rugs.
Ardabil carpets are among the most prized in Iran. The two great 16th-century Ardabil carpets — one in the V&A in London, the other in the Los Angeles County Museum of Art — were made for the Sheikh Safi shrine itself. Modern carpets sold here are mostly tribal Shahsavan kilims and pile rugs from the surrounding villages. Even if you are not buying, the smells of leather, dried fruit, and freshly brewed tea make a wander through the alleys worthwhile.