Ardabili cooking leans heavy and warm — appropriate for a city that spends half the year under snow. Look for ash-e doogh, a thick yogurt and herb soup that is the local specialty, and kufteh — outsized meatballs stuffed with dried fruit and nuts. The kebab houses along the streets north of the Sheikh Safi shrine are reliable for a quick lunch. Honey from the Sabalan slopes is famous nationwide and turns up in markets and on breakfast tables.