The teahouse in the courtyard of the Saray Moshir caravanserai is one of the most pleasant places in the bazaar quarter to sit. Low platforms with carpets and cushions, a small pool with goldfish in the centre, orange trees overhead. Order black tea with a saucer of dates and rock sugar and watch the bazaar life come and go through the open arches.
Travellers come for the setting; locals come because the tea is good and you can stay for hours. Light snacks and faloodeh are available if you want more than tea.