Hyotei has operated as a kaiseki restaurant since the late 16th century, originally serving tea ceremony meals to visitors approaching the Nanzenji temple. The present chef, Eiichi Takahashi -- the 16th generation of the family -- earned the restaurant its third Michelin star, which it has held since the Kyoto guide was first published.
The tasting menu changes entirely each month to follow the Japanese agricultural calendar; a meal at Hyotei is among the most explicit expressions of shun (seasonal eating) in Japan. Breakfast kaiseki -- the restaurant serves a traditional morning course based on soft-boiled egg -- is a Kyoto institution. Reservations months in advance.