Kanamara Matsuri

Annual festival at Kanayama Shrine, famous for its phallic floats and fertility prayers

Held annually on the first Sunday of April at Kanayama Shrine in Daishi-ku, the Kanamara Matsuri (Festival of the Steel Phallus) draws enormous crowds including many international visitors. The festival has roots in Edo-period rituals connected to fertility, safe childbirth, and protection against sexually transmitted disease — the shrine was traditionally associated with sex workers from the nearby Kawasaki-juku post town.

Today's event is noisy, colourful, and good-humoured: phallus-shaped lollipops and carvings are sold alongside more conventional festival food, and participants carry portable shrines through the streets. The atmosphere is festive rather than lewd. A significant portion of proceeds goes to HIV/AIDS research. Arrive early; by noon the crowds around the shrine are extremely dense.

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A story
The festival's central float — a giant pink phallus — was donated by a transgender bar in Kawasaki in the 1970s as part of a broader fundraising effort for HIV/AIDS research. What began as a local ritual connected to sex workers seeking protection has become, partly by accident, one of the most photographed events in Japan.

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