Hirosaki is a castle town in Aomori Prefecture, in the snowy north of Honshu. It was the seat of the Tsugaru clan, and it still has a stronger historic atmosphere than many larger cities in Tohoku: castle gates, temple lanes, old houses, and festival traditions survive alongside a modern apple-growing city.
The essential stop is Hirosaki Castle, especially in cherry blossom season when the park becomes one of northern Japan's great spring scenes. West of the centre, Zenringai gathers dozens of Zen temples in a defensive line once meant to protect the castle spiritually and practically. Saisho-in adds one of the region's most graceful five-storey pagodas.
Hirosaki is also a festival town. Its August Neputa Festival is related to Aomori's better-known Nebuta, but the fan-shaped floats and slightly calmer scale give it its own character. Apples are everywhere too: orchards ring the city, and local menus make full use of them.