A no-frills place opposite the bazaar that does some of the best plov in the city. The rice is fluffy, the lamb is fatty in the right way, and the carrots and onions are sweet. Order it with a salad of tomato and cucumber, a flat round of fresh non bread, and a pot of green tea.
The room is plain — tile floors, fluorescent lights, plastic-covered tables — but the food is the point. Lunch is busier than dinner; arrive by 1pm or the plov will be gone.