Osh's sights cluster around two poles: the UNESCO-listed Sulaiman-Too mountain that rises in the middle of the city, and the sprawling bazaar that lines the Ak-Buura River. Together they take a full day to see properly. Between them lie a handful of mosques, a Soviet-era statue or two, and the kind of central park that every former Soviet city has — leafy, slightly worn, full of locals on benches.
A second day can be spent on the Uzbek neighbourhoods (densely packed, low-rise, with mahalla courtyards and craft workshops) and on a half-day climbing higher into the Pamir-Alay foothills outside town. The pace is unhurried — Osh is a city for walking and watching.