The Bolaven Plateau rises about 1,000 metres above the Mekong lowlands east of Pakse, bringing with it cooler temperatures, higher rainfall, and the conditions that have made it the best coffee-growing region in Laos. The plateau was heavily bombed during the Vietnam War — unexploded ordnance remains a serious hazard off the marked paths — but the landscape has recovered into a mosaic of forest, coffee gardens, and small villages.
The main draw for travellers is a motorbike circuit of the plateau that takes in several major waterfalls and passes through villages of the Katu, Alak, and Suay minority groups. Tad Fane, a twin waterfall dropping around 120 metres into a deep gorge, is the most spectacular. Tad Yuang and Tad Lo are also rewarding. The full loop is around 300 kilometres and typically done over two days; guesthouses in Pakse can advise on current road conditions and provide motorbike rentals. Fresh Bolaven coffee — both robusta and arabica — is sold throughout Pakse and is excellent.