Pyathadar Hpaya is one of Bagan's larger and more satisfying temples away from the most obvious circuit. Its massing, terraces, and open position make it a good place to feel the scale of the plain without standing shoulder to shoulder at the headline monuments.
Rules around temple access and climbing have changed over time, so follow posted signs rather than old guidebook advice. Even from ground level, Pyathadar is worth seeking out for its space, brickwork, and quieter mood.