The temples are the reason to come to Bagan, and there are enough of them that no two visitors end up seeing the same ones. The best strategy is to pick a direction, rent a bicycle or e-bike, and wander. You will find locked shrines, crumbling brick towers, and frescoed interiors that haven't changed in centuries. The major monuments are signposted; the minor ones reward exploration.
Start early — by 10am the heat is serious and the tour groups have arrived. Take water and more water. The temples are spread across a large area; you won't cover them all on foot.
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