Built in 1183 by King Narapatisithu, the Sulamani ("Crowning Jewel") is one of the finest examples of the late Bagan style — a two-storey structure with elegant proportions and some of the best-preserved interior frescoes on the plain. The paintings inside date from several periods, with later Konbaung-era additions layered over the original 12th-century work.
The surrounding area is quieter than the central cluster of temples and rewards a longer visit. This is a good midday stop if the main sites feel too crowded.