Pyongyang is unlike any other capital city. It was rebuilt from near-total destruction after the Korean War and designed as an advertisement for the socialist state — wide boulevards, monumental plazas, heroic statuary, and apartment blocks in pastel colours arranged along the Taedong River. It works, visually. On a clear day, with the city laid out below you from atop the Juche Tower, it is genuinely beautiful in a deeply strange way.
Every corner carries tribute to Kim Il-sung. The main square, the university, the stadium, the airport — all bear his name or image. His bronze statue, together with Kim Jong-il's, dominates the Mansudae Grand Monument on a hill above the city. Flowers are laid there daily. Tours begin here.
The Taedong River divides the city. On the west bank: Kim Il-sung Square, the Grand People's Study House, and most of the monuments. On the east bank: Juche Tower (go up), the Victorious Fatherland Liberation War Museum with the captured USS Pueblo. The Pyongyang Metro — two deep lines with elaborately decorated stations — connects the main areas and is itself a highlight.
For a glimpse of ordinary life, Moranbong Park on the west bank is where Pyongyang residents picnic, play music, and relax on weekends. The Taesongsan recreation ground to the northeast is more deliberately tourist-oriented, with a monorail and funfair rides. The Pyongyang Circus and the Mangyongdae Children's Palace (a showcase extracurricular activity centre) are standard tour inclusions.
Hotels for foreigners include the Koryo Hotel (twin towers in the city centre, reliable) and the Yanggakdo Hotel on an island in the Taedong — comfortable, and its island location means minimal unsupervised wandering. All accommodation is arranged through your tour operator.
Eating out is guided: your minders will take you to designated restaurants. The Okryu Gwan on the Taedong River specialises in naengmyeon (cold buckwheat noodles) and is justifiably famous. Beer halls serving Taedonggang lager are a welcome end to a long day of monuments.