Dhow Cruise Through the Khors

The traditional wooden dhow cruises through Musandam's drowned valleys are the centrepiece of any visit to Khasab. Full-day trips typically enter Khor Sham and stop at the old British Telegraph Island — a tiny rocky outcrop where a relay station for the India-England underwater cable was operated in the 1860s — and at a few isolated fishing villages accessible only by water. Snorkelling stops are usually included; the water is clear and the coral in good condition.

Dozens of operators run trips from the port; competition keeps prices reasonable, and most guesthouses can arrange bookings. Half-day trips skip the farthest reaches but still cover the main dolphins-and-cliffs experience. Bring sunscreen, a hat, and plenty of water — the fjords offer little shade, and the sun reflects off the pale limestone. December to March is the most comfortable season.

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The khors of Musandam are technically fjords — drowned valleys carved by ancient rivers before sea levels rose — which makes them geologically rare in the Arabian Peninsula. Spinner dolphins are so common in these waters that operators virtually guarantee sightings; pods of several dozen animals regularly surf the bow waves of dhows. Khor Sham, the longest inlet at around 16 km, reaches so deep into the mountains that the GPS signal on some devices gives out before the end.

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