Two kilometres north of the Church of the Nativity, Aida is a Palestinian refugee camp established by the UN in 1950 for people displaced during the 1948 war. Today it houses around 7,000 people on 0.07 square kilometres — one of the most densely populated areas on earth. The separation wall runs along one edge.
The camp entrance is marked by the giant Key of Return, a sculpture symbolising the right of return for Palestinian refugees. The wall around the camp displays extensive murals and street art, some by internationally known artists. Community-run organisations offer tours that explain the camp's history and present conditions — these are the best way to visit, providing context and supporting local civil society.