Seogwipo is Jeju Island's second city, on the south coast directly below Hallasan. It is quieter and less developed than Jeju City and makes an excellent alternative base, especially if you care more about coast walks than nightlife. The city has two waterfalls within walking distance of the centre: Cheonjiyeon in a green ravine and Jeongbang dropping almost straight to the sea.
The sea cliffs west of the centre are dramatic, with black basalt dropping into deep blue water around Oedolgae. Jeju Olle walking routes pass through town, so Seogwipo works well for travellers who want to walk a section each day, then come back to a real city rather than a resort strip.
The fishing port has raw fish restaurants where the catch comes from the morning's haenyeo harvest. Maeil Olle Market is the easier evening option, with citrus, seafood, and snack stalls. Lee Jung-seop Street adds a small art stop around the Korean painter's former wartime home.