Cheongju is a mid-sized city of around 800,000 people in central Korea and the capital of North Chungcheong Province. It sits roughly equidistant between Seoul and Daejeon, and makes a practical base for exploring the region — buses to Seoul take about 90 minutes, Daejeon 30 minutes.
The city has a quiet claim to fame: Cheongju is the birthplace of Jikji, the world's oldest surviving book printed with movable metal type, predating Gutenberg by 78 years. The book itself is held in the Bibliothèque nationale de France, but the Cheongju Early Printing Museum stands on the actual Heungdeoksa Temple site where the Jikji was printed in 1377, telling the full story of its creation.
For outdoor culture, Sangdang Fortress on Uam Mountain northeast of the city offers 4 km of ancient walls with excellent views and a traditional village inside the ramparts — the best walk in Cheongju. At the back of the Cheongju Department Store stands an iron flagpole centuries old — the last remnant of a Buddhist temple long since gone. Locals say the vendors nearby serve the best tteokbokki (spicy rice cakes) in Korea. The Jungang Market downtown is an equally rewarding wander. Every other year the city hosts the Cheongju International Craft Biennale, drawing artisans and designers from across Asia and beyond.
For nightlife, Cheongju's bar scene clusters around the main gate of Chungbuk National University (Chungdae Joong Moon) and the downtown Shinae district, with Pearl Jam and Attic Bar among the expat favourites near the university gate.