Mae Hong Son's morning market, behind the lake and running along the streets near the bus terminal, is the most rewarding early-morning activity in town. It operates from around 5:30am to 9am and brings together people from the surrounding hills and valleys to trade fresh produce, forest herbs, live chickens, and prepared street food.
The Shan and hill tribe character of the market is genuine — vendors in traditional dress are not posed for tourists but are simply going about their business. Look for fresh Shan tofu (made from chickpea rather than soy), sticky rice in banana leaves, and the khanom chin (fermented rice noodles with curry sauce) that make an excellent breakfast. Get there before 7am for the best atmosphere.