Mae Hong Son is a peaceful spot in the north-western corner of Thailand, sheltered by mountains and shaped by centuries of Burmese influence. The town is small, walkable, and popular with independent travellers -- more than 20 guesthouses line the quiet streets.
The iconic image of the town is the reflection of the white Burmese-style chedis of Wat Jong Kham and Wat Jong Klang in Nong Chong Kham lake at dawn — one of the most photogenic scenes in northern Thailand. The hilltop Wat Phra That Doi Kong Mu gives panoramic views over the valley, and the morning market behind the lake is one of the most authentic in the region.
The best time to visit is November to March, when the air is cool and the town looks its best. In January temperatures can drop to 2 degrees. The surrounding mountains have long been home to various migrant hilltribes.
The real draw is what lies beyond the town. The province is laced with caves — archaeologists have counted 67 — and the forested mountains are cut by rivers and dotted with Shan, Karen, and Hmong villages. Rafting on the Pai River, trekking to waterfalls, and exploring Tham Lot cave near Soppong are all easily arranged from town. Mae Aw (Ban Rak Thai) on the Burmese border is the definitive day trip.