Ulus is the old heart of Ankara, built on two volcanic hills that have been continuously inhabited for at least 4,000 years. The neighbourhood contains almost everything ancient in the city: the Roman baths, the Temple of Augustus, the Hacı Bayram Mosque, Aslanhane Mosque, and Ankara Castle. The streets are narrow, hilly, and irregular — a complete contrast to the wide republican boulevards below.
In recent decades, Ulus has become a working-class neighbourhood with a lively market scene. The bazaar around the castle sells everything from copper goods and textiles to fresh produce. The restaurants within the castle walls serve traditional Ankara cuisine — testi kebabı (meat cooked in a sealed clay pot) and pilav — in an atmospheric setting. Allow a full half-day to explore Ulus properly.