Scattered through the lanes of Kaleiçi are meyhane — traditional Turkish taverns — where meze plates arrive without being ordered, rakı (the anise spirit) flows, and the evening stretches into something extended and sociable. The format is fixed: small cold plates (cold meze: hummus, haydari, stuffed vine leaves, grilled aubergine), then hot plates (fried calamari, meatballs, pide), then fish, and rakı throughout.
This is the most characteristically Turkish way to eat in the city. Prices are moderate by tourist-area standards. Look for the places with local clientele rather than English menus displayed outside.