Ihlara Valley is arguably the most spectacular scenery in Cappadocia. The gorge runs for 16 km, cut by the Melendiz river through volcanic rock, with steep walls rising up to 150 metres on either side. It lies somewhat apart from the main Cappadocian tourist circuit — getting here takes a bit more effort — but it rewards the trip with an atmosphere that's noticeably quieter than Göreme or Ürgüp.
The valley walls contain around 100 rock-carved Byzantine churches, many decorated with frescoes dating from the 9th to the 13th centuries. The most significant — Ağaçaltı, Yılanlı, Sümbüllü, Kokar and the 13th-century Kırkdamaltı — can be seen in a couple of hours, but the real pleasure is following the river path downstream at a relaxed pace, discovering churches on your own, watching kingfishers, and stopping to eat at the riverside restaurants in Belisirma.
The climb down into the gorge at the main entry staircase is steep. The descent is manageable for most people; the climb out is harder. Comfortable shoes and a reasonable level of fitness are recommended. A full day is the right allocation: bring a picnic or eat at one of the riverside restaurants.
The most spectacular finish to the walk is the rock-cut city of Selime at the northern end — a multi-storey monastic complex carved into the cliff that justifies the trek on its own. The nearby market town of Güzelyurt makes a quieter and far less crowded base than Göreme for travellers who want to stay overnight.