Harput is what was here before Elazığ existed. The modern city in the plain was founded in 1862 as an Ottoman administrative centre to replace the old town on the ridge; Harput emptied out, and what's left is a quiet hillside village with a remarkable density of monuments — the castle, the Ulu Cami, several smaller mosques, the Arap Baba shrine, the Çimşit baths.
A morning is enough to walk the lot. The lanes are stone-paved and steep, and there are two or three teahouses where the village men sit out drinks of tea looking down on the plain. Local minibuses run up the hill from Elazığ centre frequently; a taxi is cheap.