Çiğ Börek Houses

The local fried meat-pastry tradition, served everywhere in the city

Çiğ börek (also spelled chebureki) was brought to Eskişehir by Crimean Tatar refugees who settled here in the 19th century. The pastry is a thin disc of dough folded around minced meat with onion and spices, then deep-fried until it bubbles and crisps. Eaten hot, with ayran and a squeeze of lemon, it is one of the great street foods of Turkey.

Two long-established places to try are Şile Çiğ Börekçisi and Tatar Hatun, both in the centre. Expect to pay a few lira per pastry; one is a snack, two or three are a meal. They are best when fresh from the oil, so prefer the queue-out-the-door place over the empty one. The dough is wheat in Eskişehir, never the corn version you find further east.

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