Independent movement in Turkmenistan is restricted. Foreign visitors are generally expected to travel with a guide or through a licensed agency, and certain areas — border zones, parts of the Caspian coast — require special permits. In practice, most travelers join organized tours or arrange a private driver and guide through their visa-sponsoring agency.
By air
Turkmenistan Airlines runs domestic flights connecting Ashgabat to Turkmenbashi, Mary, Turkmenabat, Dashoguz, and Balkanabat. Flights are inexpensive and useful given the distances involved. Tickets sell out quickly, so book in advance. Note that foreigners historically paid higher fares than locals.
By train
The country has a reasonable rail network, recently upgraded with new Chinese-built rolling stock. Sleeper trains connect Ashgabat to Mary (about 6h 30min), Turkmenabat (11h 30min), Turkmenbashi (14h), and Dashoguz (12h 30min). The trains have dining cars and sleeping berths. They are cheap, comfortable enough, and a good way to see the landscape if your itinerary allows.
By shared taxi and minibus
Marshrutkas (shared minibuses) and shared taxis cover intercity routes. They leave when full rather than on a fixed schedule. Fares are low — typically the equivalent of US$5–10 for intercity journeys. Within cities, buses cost almost nothing.
Hiring a driver
For the Darvaza gas crater and desert trips, hiring a car with a driver is standard. The road from Ashgabat is paved most of the way, but the last stretch to the crater requires a vehicle with some ground clearance. Your tour operator or hotel can arrange this.