Highlights

The Darvaza Gas Crater. In the Karakum Desert, roughly 260 km north of Ashgabat, a hole in the ground has been on fire since the early 1970s, when Soviet engineers accidentally collapsed a natural gas cavern. They lit it to burn off the gas, expecting it to go out in a few days. It is still burning. The crater is about 70 meters wide and glows orange at night with a light visible from miles away. Camping on the rim — which most visitors do — is one of the more disorienting experiences in Central Asia.

The Ancient City of Merv. Near the town of Mary, the ruins of Merv stretch across the desert in a sequence of overlapping cities dating from the 3rd century BC to the 13th century AD. At its peak, it was one of the largest cities in the world. The Mongols destroyed it in 1221. What remains — mud-brick fortresses, mausoleums, the Sultan Sanjar mausoleum with its turquoise dome — is vast, largely unexcavated, and almost always empty of other tourists. UNESCO listed it in 1999.

Kunya-Urgench. The capital of the Khwarazmian Empire, destroyed by the Mongols in 1221 and never rebuilt, Kunya-Urgench in northern Turkmenistan preserves a cluster of 12th and 14th-century monuments including what may be the tallest medieval minaret in Central Asia. Like Merv, it is a World Heritage Site and sees few visitors.

Ashgabat's marble madness. The capital holds the Guinness World Record for the highest density of white marble-clad buildings in the world. Walking through its broad, eerily empty avenues — past golden statues, vast fountains, and palaces nobody seems to use — is a genuinely strange experience. The Turkmenbashi Ruhy Mosque is the largest in Central Asia. The National Museum and the Carpet Museum (housing the world's largest hand-woven carpet) are worth the time.

The Caspian coast. Turkmenistan has a stretch of Caspian Sea coastline around Turkmenbashi. The Avaza tourist zone nearby was developed as a resort area, though it remains quiet. The Caspian crossing by ferry to Baku remains a classic Central Asian adventure — slow, unpredictable, and memorable.