Turkmenistan has a population of around 6 million people. The vast majority — roughly 85 percent — are ethnic Turkmens, a Turkic-speaking people whose origins lie in the nomadic tribes of the Central Asian steppes. Uzbeks make up about 5 percent of the population; Russians, once more numerous, have emigrated heavily since independence. Smaller communities of Kazakhs, Azerbaijanis, and others make up the rest.
The Turkmens are divided into tribes, and tribal identity remains important. The dominant tribes are the Tekke (concentrated around Ashgabat and Mary), the Yomut (along the Caspian), and the Ersari (in the east near Uzbekistan). Each tribe has its own carpet patterns, dress traditions, and dialect. In the cities this is less visible, but in rural areas tribal distinctions still shape daily life.
Islam arrived in the 8th century and is practiced by the great majority of Turkmens, though in a relatively relaxed form shaped by the long influence of Sufism. Soviet-era secularism still runs deep in urban areas. The government has kept Islam firmly under state control and does not permit independent religious activity.
The nomadic past is not just history. Horses are raised and prized; the Akhal-Teke breed — lean, metallic-coated, extraordinarily elegant — is a national symbol and appears on the coat of arms. Carpet weaving is a female craft handed down through generations, and Turkmen carpets (characterized by deep reds and geometric patterns) are among the most sought-after in the world.
Turkmen hospitality is genuine and generous. An invitation to a family home is not to be taken lightly or refused if possible. You will be offered tea, bread, and whatever food the household has. This tradition of welcoming strangers is older than any government.